Wednesday 18 April 2012

Hodgepodge served with Ain-I-Akbari Bread

The Renaissance is usually looked upon as the dawning of the new age for science, art and literature- but what of the food? Largely the foods where not as progressive as the rest of the era, mostly they were recipes and ideas left over from the Middle Ages. By the 15th century new foods (finally) began trickling into English cuisine. Like the Medieval era vegetables were still popular. Grains also became more widely available. Which brings me onto the next dish- Hodgepodge and Ain-I-Akbari bread.

      This dish is equally unglamorous as the previous era. I was surprised by this as I expected fine dining which would rival the other movements in the era. However, as the majority of the popularity were still poor a dish like this one would be served almost daily. When I found the recipe I wanted to use it was described as a “simple experiment in aesthetics, [and] a broadening of the palate”, sounds promising right? Here is the recipe I used to make the hodgepodge;

A Book Of Cookrye-Very necessary for all such as delight therin.
Hodgepodge.
Boyle a neck of Mutton or a fat rump of Beef, and when it is well boyled, take the best of the broth and put it into a pipkin and put a good many onyons to it, two handfull of marigold flowers, and a handful of percely fine picked and groce shredde and not too small, and so boyle them in the broth and thicke it with strained bread, putting therin groce beaten pepper, and a spoonfull of Vinagre, and let it boyle somwhat thick and so lay it upon your meat.

Again my lack of knowledge of old English was my Achilles heel. Anyway here’s how I interpreted the recipe;
Ingredients
Beef rump steak/ fat rump of Beef
Onions/ onyons
Marigold flowers
Parsley/ percely
Strained bread
Pepper
Vinegar/ vinagre.

1.Place the beef in a pot of water and heat, when it begins to boil turn the heat down and leave to simmer for 3-5 hours.
2.When the beef is tender, remove it from the water. Then turn the heat up and add the onions, marigold flowers and parsley.
3.Leave it to reduce and then add the strained bread to further reduce the broth.
4.Lay the broth over the meat and serve.

I have never boiled beef before so the timings I used were from another recipe book. As it was going to take so long to cook I made the bread while I waited for it to tenderize.

Ain i Akbari- Original 16th c. Mughal recipe:
There is a large kind, baked in an oven, made of 10 s. flour; 5 s. milk; 1 1/2 s. ghi; 1/4 s. salt. They make also smaller ones. The thin kind is baked on an iron plate. One ser will give fifteen, or even more. There are various ways of making it; one kind is called hapatti, which is sometimes made of khushka; it tastes very well when served hot.”

Modern recipe:
4oz flour
0.6 oz ghee (clarified butter)
200 ml milk
Pinch of salt

1. Melt the ghee, stir it into the flour with a fork until there are only very small lumps.
2. Stir in the milk until thoroughly mixed, knead briefly.
3. Put the ball of dough in a bowl covered by a damp cloth and leave for at least an hour.
4. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, adding a little extra flour if necessary.
5. Take a ball of dough about 2" in diameter, roll it out to about a 5" diameter circle.
6. Cook it in a hot frying pan without grease. After about 2 minutes it should start to puff up a little in places. Turn it. Cook another 2 minutes. Turn it. Cook another 2 minutes. It should be done. The recipe should make about 11 of these.

The bread was surprisingly easy to make and was similar to a modern chapatti or pitta bread. It defiantly needs to be dipped in something to make it edible otherwise it would be very dry. I was more than surprised at the way it turned out I anticipated a heavy loaf because of the lack of yeast. However, my pride over my newest culinary conquest was soon shattered when I finished the hodgepodge. It was nothing short of a disaster. I ignored its unappealing exterior (as the equally hideous pottage was actually quite tasty) but was disheartened at the taste. The meat whilst undeniably tender and falling apart, was dull and flavourless. The marigold added nothing to this bland dish which annoyed me because I expected something magic from this unusual ingredient. I tried to get my family to take on true renaissance etiquette by digging in with their hands rather than utensils. This idea was not well received. My mum agreed with me, best this dish stay in the past; and I couldn’t tempt anyone else to even smell it let alone taste the dish.


So as far as I am concerned the renaissance may be the turning point for arts, literature and science but they could have definitely worked more on their food. This dish has clearly been lost in time for a very good reason and I hope I never have to see hodgepodge again.

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